The Fiddes Hard Wax Oil would be a good option for you to have a look at and is available in sample sizes. Hi, It will darken the wood slightly and the best way to get an idea of how much is by wiping a damp cloth across the bare wood. Alternatively, you can speak with one of our in-house experts by contacting us here and they will be able to discuss your project and the products required. Email me with the photos and the results of the test to [email protected] and I can advice form there. Which out of all the oils you do is most water resistant and has the highest UV and wear resistance? Teak oil again ok? As it is engineered flooring you may not be able to sand it back and it may not go back to its original state when dry, but you do need to dry it before applying as putting more oil on will hold the water in the wood and you are likely to get mould and mildew forming. I love the character of this wood but have been reading it is rather dangerous to work with with spores etc always present. When the wood has absorbed the oil, leave it for ten minutes then wipe the excess off with a clean cloth. If you use an oil-based stain, it’ll block the pores in the wood and prevent the oil from doing its job properly. I am using White oak. Presumably as Teak Oil is colourless I shouldn’t be seeing a colour coming off the wood, should I? It will be more hard wearing and durable than a Danish Oil. Mineral oil is actually a very effective laxative, which you should be able to buy at your local chemist. If it is a hardwood you may need to look at the Extra Thin Oil from Osmo to get a better absorption. Have you tried speaking to anyone at Wren or any other Laminate suppliers as they may have repair kits that would suit your needs. Thanks for the advice Sam. If you would like a more durable product, you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil with a base coat of the Osmo Wood Protector, which will help prevent the wood getting brittle when exposed to differing temperatures and humidity’s. I have acquired a beautiful slice of aged oak approx 2800 x 800 x 25mm, which i want to use as a splash back in my kitchen.. And for even better long lasting protection you can apply a preservative before the Garden Oil, this will help to avoid mould and rot from forming and a good option is the Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver. 3. Thank you for your inquiry, unfortunately you can not apply a preservative over the oil as the oil will prevent penetration. I would recommend taking a look at the Osmo Extra Thin. If the stain is still there, mix equal amounts of baking soda and toothpaste together to make a slightly stronger, yet still mild, abrasive and rub that mixture on the stain. Thank your this helpful blog. How would you recommend I remove the marks and maintain the doors? Osmo decking oil is very easy to apply and maintain. Firstly can I say I have immensely enjoyed reading all the comments on this thread, I’ve learned a lot in a short space of time Eucalyptus has a naturally high oil content, and so adding more oil may not be an option or a necessity. A light sand is probably required after all the varnish is removed just to ensure a smooth surface. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I have just been and checked both bottles and they do both state ‘Not recommended for use on Oak’ it is only Barrettine that state this as other brands such as Ronseal are happy for the product to be used on Oak. I too have the same problem. Once I have the finished bowl I am unsure what product is the best to reduce the splitting, preserve the wood and retain the natural red in the wood. Any chance of some advice? I am making a large round (4ft dia.) I have used Devon Oil to oil a new beech table top bought from a Swedish furniture supplier. Over time the varnish has started flaming off and the wood is fading below it, would love to get rid of the varnish and bring out the natural colours in the wood, not sure how to do either? You can try wiping over with some white spirits to remove the excess oil that is not drying. I am sorry, I know this is not the answer you are looking for. the area we are treating will be inside and the windows have original lead lights. It would be wise to fill any cracks with wood filler to help prevent further water ingress and take care to maintain any horizontal sills that could be effected by standing water. Hi sam Oak is arguably one of the most well-known hardwoods and is commonly used in the production of wooden worktops. You can email me directly at [email protected], Just stumbled across your feed and hoping you can help me out…. Eventually we will need to re oil but wondered if we could just apply Outdoor Furniture Oil over it without prior sanding. And so a thinner oil is more suited, however as long as the Osmo Polyx Oil has absorbed into the surface of the wood there should be no problems. Any good butcher … Nancy. Would you recommend any other product that may perform better in this use? Its great that you are able to apply products before the worktop is installed. I want the natural wood and the natural colour of the teak – I don’t want to stain it with any colours. You could look at applying the Osmo Anti Slip Decking Oil if the wood will take this, test areas will show, both these products are available in sample sizes. I would also recommend a test area with the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints to ensure that you are getting the colour that you and your client want. Ps I did not walk on any area after oiling for more that 24hrs. However, I did ask a second question earlier: Please help we have an old farmhouse in France with a lot of oak beams showing all very old bur untreated which oil would it be best to use In its natural, sanded state it is a light fawn colour and I think would provide a nice contrast if it were darkened a little. As it a hard wood table a thinner oil would be better as it will soak into the tight grain better, so go with a product such as Teak Oil or the Osmo Extra Thin and then when applying, dip the brush in the oil and then wipe most of the oil off the brush before working into the wood. It would be possible for you to remove the varnish with a product, such as the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover from Barrettine. Sorry, not an expert on classic cars, but I will be happy to help if I know the location. It offers some protective properties to the wood, not as much as oils will do however. 2. For the best protection I would always recommend applying a good Preservative first this will protect from mould, mildew and rot. Alternatively, visit our FAQ page for any and all wood oil-related queries. It give a natural look and feel to the wood. My husband made and installed very solid iroko window frames in our house about 30 years ago, as well as fencing.They haven’t had much maintenance but the top halves of the window frames are still brown. Unlike the smaller bottle this one states ‘Not recommended for use on oak’. I would like something that would “clear coat”, but if it were to darken somewhat that would be fine, I just don’t what everything going black. Thanks Peter, Hi we have engineered oak floors throughout the groundfloor, fitted about 3 years ago. Applying another very thin coat may be necessary after wiping with the White spirit but do a test area first to see that the wood will take it. Hi, I am making an Outdoor Poolside Chaise lounge out of spotted gum hardwood. We would always recommend starting with a good preservative on all external woods, Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative comes in a clear finish and will protect against Mould, Mildew, Rot and Wood Boring insects. Thicknesses available: 40mm, 55mm & 70mm. And if you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to get in touch. I have read that boiled linseed oil is what I should use to protect the wood from water damage. This sensational timber is extremely durable, and a perfect timber for a hygienic work surface. Very very thin application is required and I would advice not to over sand the surface before application, see how you get on with those samples and go from there. Paula. It may be the Osmo Polyx Oil that your nephew was talking about. We have internal doors, which I waxed 3 or 4 years ago, but which are now showing grubby / greasy finger marks. This would need regular maintenance due to the fact that there is no UV Protection in this product. I hope this helps and let me know if you have any more question, plus i would love to see a before and after picture if you get a time to send one. Varnish / Lacquer will give more resistance to liquids, but even that can get marked by oils that are not wiped up promptly. A clear oil may well be enough to get the look that you want. Yes I would advise to clean the stains before oiling. It will give a clear hard wearing finish that will not come off on clothing when in regular use. Would Danish oil perhaps work? We just build pine book shelves. The second is the oil mix was left wet for too long and the excess not wiped off. You can wait for a couple of years for the oil to wear away and then lightly sand to remove any left over, and then treat with the preservative. Our goal is to finish with something that will make the wood grain look wet. Hello, Thank you! It is going pale in places and also has tiny cracks appearing. This worktop oil has been specially blended to maintain the water and heat resistant surface for your worktops whilst giving them a smooth and soft-sheen finish. It has a quick drying time although a full cure is around 72 hours plus depending on conditions and temperature. hi And then a top coat products such as Decking Oil will give good UV protection and water repellency. We construct every worktop ourselves, made to order, to your exact sizes. Thank you for your inquiry, we often recommend Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish for beams as they need little in the way of durability and more nourishment and many people like a natural look and feel to the beams. We live in forest country – no visiting cats here! Here at WFD we would recommend the use of the Osmo Wood Protector to go on first. Hi, I want to use an Osmo oil product on my oak veneered doors but have been told that I cannot as the oil will soak through making the glue fail and causing the veneer to peal. It’s been down for a couple of years and we have got a couple of scratches and it needs protecting with some oil / preservative but don’t want to make it shiny or slippy compared to what we have now. Consider the possibilities. And remember the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra needs to be applied very thinly and a light sand between coats will give a superior finish. The Barrettine Premier Wood Protective Treatment is a good choice to start with and then an Oil for the top coat. Both are also available in sample sizes and I strongly recommend test areas first. Hi there, I hope you can help me. I believe it’s oak. It is something that we come across a lot in our business. Sand the wood in between coats with a fine sandpaper. It is food safe once cured and will help to prevent cracking in the wood, it will not stop it, if the wood is going to shift a lot as it dries, but it will certainly help to nourish the wood and reduce the chances or cracking. It will offer limited protection and good nourishment to the wood. It is a great stripper for old and new paints and varnishes but test areas are strongly recommended to ensure there are no adverse reactions. Clear treatments do offer limited UV however and it would be fair to say that by applying a colour, even a slight one it will improve the UV protection. While they are turning out like I wanted, it has been very time consuming. Hope that helps and if you have any more questions please let me know. I have some polyx-oil raw left over from doing a floor. Apologies for not making it clear but it’s all the external woodwork that needs re-doing. I hope that helps and if you do have any more questions please let me know – Sam, Hi I am currently building a table for inside my house using oak railway sleepers I have persuade the manns light oak stain and I don’t how what to use to protect it please could you give me some advise thanks. For other interior Oak, an Oak furniture oil like. I would be interested to see where it says it is a possible use for laminate as this to my knowledge is not true. If the beams have no product on them currently then you could use the Teak Oil to nourish then and enhance the natural finish of the wood. I have made a pizza board out of English oak and want a dark stain that is also safe as it will be in contact with food. You could have a look at the Holzol Worktop Oil it is a clear oil that will protect the wood and give good water repellency. Test areas are always recommended and if you have any further questions please feel free to let me know. Once you are back to bare wood then I would recommend a good quality preservative such as Osmo WR Base Coat and then a top coat of the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra two thin coats will give great protection. Philip. Regular maintenance of the oil will help to retain these protective properties. If the oil soaks into the surface of the wood and leaves a small mark or stain, the furniture has been oiled. Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, you can. Both these products will protect the wood and are easy to patch repair should damage or stains occur. Hi. Another result of the time is dust in the grains, I have not been able to get completely out with a vacuum, as well as water stains, and overpainting. Thanks Adam. I would like to oil it for the finish but I am unsure of what oil to use? I am happy to help. I am looking to buy a large antique cherrywood dining table that has been varnished. This is a clear oil that is ideal for hardwoods such as Mahogany and Teak. Danish will nourish and protect but it will require more coats and regular maintenance coats to be done around every 6 months. It requires less maintenance and is easy to repair should the need arise. I do not want a high gloss finish, a light sheen would be better, bearing in mind the ‘traffic’ over the threshold what would you suggest Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. Now that the the table has been delivered it came with a leaflet saying that it is a lacquer finish and that it should only be wiped with a dry cloth. Not sure if there is much hope for the overpaint. I have a solid oak external door that was fitted last winter. But is there a finishing oil I can use to darken it. They have to be heat- and waterproof and finished in only two days. I was given a large jug of the oil and would like to use it and pentacryl is quite expensive and would like to try something a bit more affordable. Because it is a hardwood you do need an oil that is slightly thinner than a standard to ensure good absorption and I can recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin as this is specifically designed for tight grained wood such as Teak and Ipe. This will go on top of previous wax or varnish that is on the furniture without any problems. It may be of some benefit to sand the wood with a 150 grit to ensure the wood is in good condition to accept the oil. Do we need to oil this again before we start using this ? Just get in touch. Thanks Sam…. Now having to sand and white spirit it off so that I can use a different make of oil. I was reluctant to varnish the floor instead of oil osmo as I prefer osmo and find it so easy to use. What would you recommend please? Would you kindly give me a step by step process on how I would attempt this and which oils you would recommend? The Osmo is far superior to the Linseed Oil and will be more hard wearing and durable. From research on your site, I believe I need to apply, I recently had an accident where a bottle of insect repellant containing deet leaked from the bottle. I’m pretty sure I can’t abrase further to try to blend in as I’m the surface would not be too thin. Osmo do not like recommending this product for horizontal surfaces as these areas can be exposed to standing water, and this will damage the treatment fairly quickly resulting in the wood silvering quicker. It is also true to say that most Oils will also darken the wood slightly, the wood may also have still had a lot of the previous oil still left in it from the older treatments and so it saturation levels may have been less than you thought. Help urgently needed as my husband has already trimmed the floor back to try and remove the buckling but if he takes any more off it will be too small in the summer. Having read lots of posts and viewed websites I am confused as to whether teak oil or danish oil is the way to go. Then two very thin coats of one of the Osmo UV products Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is the clear version and there are a few colours with in the range also. Best oil for Oak worktops. If the wood is sanded too smooth, it can prevent the oil from penetrating in to the wood to protect it. I don't feel up to sanding etc., and don't want the expense of someone coming in to do it. Im upcycling teak furniture (interior not exterior furniture) and want to put life back into the wood.. its looking dull and scratched a bit (i like the scratches for character so not intending to fill these in/sand down). Hi, could you clarify this sentence for me: “Wood oils never penetrate more than a couple of microns into the surface of the timber”. It is not as easy to repair an varnished surface as it is and oiled one, and it may not be completely invisible but have a read of this blog and you can decide from there. Sapele is a very dense wood and as a result, not all wood oils are suitable for this wood. Some people say to strip it back and use Osmo extra thin, others to use teak or danish oil and others to lacquer it. Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions. May I use the olive oil on my deck? We purchased a home with old western cedar tongue and grove walls. When it has sunk in, wipe off the excess then buff your bat to a sheen using a clean cloth. I was wondering if Danish oil would be a good finish for it? Clean the wood and allow to dry. It can be difficult to maintain or repair over time however. The quality feeling of iroko make this a perfect worktop material for schools and colleges and specialist labs. If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions. If you have a look at the products and of course feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. Hi sam If you have any questions at all please do let me know via our contact us page. If you take a look at the Polyx and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have. I have acquired a large slab of English Ash which I intend to use as a dining table. An exterior oil will be easier to maintain and repair should the need arise. Thank you. What would be the best way to disguise these marks? Many clear products will darken the wood slightly, however you could consider a wax such as the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish this give a lustre and shine that can nourish and bring the wood back to life without darkening it too much. If you’re treating a worktop that has been previously oiled, all you need to do is make sure it’s clean, dry and in a good condition for oiling. Varnishing is a strictly a no-no. Joined: 24 Sep 2008 Posts: 1,162 Location: St. Neots, cambs. I know it’s meant for solid wood but their website does say their products have successfully been used on laminate without problem? As far as I can tell it is unfinished. I’ve recently been fortunate come by some vintage eucalyptus timbers (2½×9×108″), courtesy of a local bridge refurbishment project. Secondly, the wood has been nailed in place; if I go over it again (wood and nails) with the oil, will this keep it waterproof where the nails have entered the wood? Never, ever leave an oily cloth rolled up. Further to my question above (still awaiting moderation) about my sepele hall table Samantha, my son would actually like a high gloss finish. would be prohibitive. Many thanks! For some reason I thought that the oil was soaking in very deeply and travelling up the leg, but now I see that wood oil only barely penetrates? Simply apply a fresh coat, to clean dry wood, when you feel the wood needs it, annually or bi annually. It’s going on a log store and will be outside (obviously). I was keen to use a hard wax oil but the customer wanted to use Danish oil, as he believed that was what had been used before. All are regarding exterior use. It can easily generate heat and catch fire. But wanted to ask you if it is too late to apply something like the Barretine preservative BETWEEN coats for extra protection? It's crucial do this with most oil finishing, BLO for example. It is not possible to apply an oil over a lacquer as the oil needs to penetrate into the wood, the current finish will prevent this. Thank you for your inquiry, it is fair to say that for the project you are working on, you will need a durable water repellent finish. (I have the Danish oil & cloth already) I wasn’t 100% sure & don’t want to ruin the surface or have to re-sand it all for a second time. It is important that the oil soaks into the surface of the wood and dries, over application results in poor protection and the surface is likely to mark easily. Iroko Hardwood: Best real wood kitchen worktop. It was coated in linseed oil but the door seems to have dried since then and I was thinking of applying Osmo UV protection oil to the door. hall table out of sepele. Temperatures range from -7 to +30 in my area, with a lot of sun. Its worth having a read up on the 3 products in this range to see exactly what is required when applying them. Clear oils will enhance the natural colour and grain of the wood. Simply reapply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it. For External treatment you could consider the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra. Hi Sam, Water ingress is the biggest problem when it comes to wood and so regular maintenance will help to prevent damage. You could have a look at the Osmo Top Oil this is a food safe penetrating oil that will give a moisture repellent finish to the wood. You guys seem really knowledgeable about these products so any advice would really help me. Use a colourless, odour-free, light mineral oil instead, a safe and popular by-product of petroleum. Regards, And if not, do you have any recommendations on what kind of oil should I be using for it? I’ve just had some renovation works in my house. It was bought from floors to go as oiled finish but the fitter advised me to oil it when it was fitted saying the factory oiling was only a thin layer. However, if you have two different woods then the overall finish will be different even if you use the same product to finish them. Does teak oil change the color and if so would you have any recommendations, Teak Oils are classed as clear but like most oils it can darken the wood slightly when applied. Having used up my 500ml bottle of Barrettine teak oil halfway through oiling my oak garden furniture, I ordered the 2 litre bottle from yourselves. If you have a look at the products recommended and let me know if you have any further questions. Wipe down the settled dust with white spirit before you oil it. I am about to start the sanding process but what oil would recommend to finishing please? People have suggested all sorts of things to prevent cracking from wax to sucrose solution to pentacryl. If you have any other questions please do get back in touch. Please help. I want it to look a natural colour but it must be fire-proof. And I will be happy to make some recommendations for you to have a look at. With so many to choose from, it’s easy to settle for something that turns out not to be the right fit for your kitchen or lifestyle. The Hard Wax Oil is available in same sizes for you try, and please do let me know if you have any further questions. On darker wood this will show up as slightly milky or if the oil is over applied. First, what wood do you recommend for the table so that it withstands daily wear and tear? It’s a gel stripper that will make the varnish bubble up to be scrapped off with a Filler Knife. Once you have removed all the varnish and you are looking to apply a treatment, I would recommend a product such as the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. I have a walnut worktop in my kitchen, been in about 8 years now and it was treated throughout the years with Speedstone oil & wax based clear sealant (various veg oils, linseed oil etc with wax and parafin etc). On my last wooden worktops i used danish oil but i wasn't impressed with how easily it stained. if i use something like osmo poylx do i need to sand it right back to the wood (which is a much lighter colour than the wax). I have several Siberian Elm cookies that I am making into end tables. If you would like to send any photos to [email protected] feel free. I have recently had a wooden loft ladder fitted and want to know what oil to use. Also, BLO isn’t typically recommended for exterior wood but perhaps alongside the shou sugi ban protection this would give ample finish to the timber. I would also recommend wiping down with the White Spirits first though to remove as much of the previous Oil first. We have bought a new unfinished rosewood table. The bark is still on and I would like to use them as plant stands (ideally outside). These are quite subtle and natural looking, but will increase the UV protection as the pigments act as filters. I bought an solid oak slab from a lumber yard and plan to use it as a worktop for a wash basin. hi To keep the wood looking Natural but protected take a look at these two products Osmo Polyx Oil and Osmo Polyx Oil Raw. Using an interior wood oil such as Osmo Polyx Oil or Fiddes Hard Wax Oil would be a good option. Thank you for your enquiry, a good option is the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. If you are looking for something exterior feel free to get back in touch to let me know and I can suggest some alternative products. Or if you find that its not or you would like to change the finish, you can sand back to bare wood and choose a product such as Fiddes Hard Wax Oil. This worktop oil … For the top coat you could use the Osmo Polyx Oil, For your question about the floor, although the Hard wax Oil doesn’t polish up as much as a Wax would, you can still improve the shine slightly by buffing the wood. Teak, Lemon, Tung???? If the wood is saturated with the Linseed oil then it will not absorb any more and if that is the case you may need to remove the Linseed Oil before applying the Osmo. Another question is, as it is heavily carved, how would I remove excess oil after application? This hard wax oil comes in a Satin finish and a little goes a long way as this product needs to be applied thinly. But decided against it as I have read varnish is water based and shouldn’t be mixed with oil. The exterior is oak, the drawers are ash with plywood inserts. I have a new oak kitchen table and Some people are saying I should use Danish oil while others are saying Tong oil. Also what is the best product for general cleaning afterwards? The alternative would be to rub down and remove any wax that is left on there and once back to bare clean wood you can apply a Door Oil this will be more durable than the Wax and easier to keep clean. Thanks. The easy way to think of this is having water and oil in a frying pan – try to mix them and they separate. I am so sorry that I can not be of more help and I hope that you are able to get the problem solved. Hi there Iroko is renowned for its suitability as a kitchen worktop due to its naturally high oil content.

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